Standard method for inspection of fabrics

Cloth Inspection Standard: "Four-Point Scoring Method"

The most widely used method for inspecting fabric is the "Four-Point Scoring System." In this system, each individual defect can receive a maximum of four points. No matter how many defects are present on the fabric, the score per line must not exceed four points.

When evaluating defects in different directions—such as lengthwise, widthwise, or diagonally—the scoring is based on the following criteria:

1 Point: Defect length is 3 inches or less.
2 Points: Defect length is more than 3 inches but less than 6 inches.
3 Points: Defect length is more than 6 inches but less than 9 inches.
4 Points: Defect length is more than 9 inches.

For serious defects, such as holes, every yard of fabric will be rated at 4 points. For example, all holes, regardless of size, are assigned 4 points. Similarly, any continuous defects like crosspieces, edge-to-edge color variations, irregular widths, creases, or uneven dyeing will also result in 4 points per yard.

Each individual code point cannot exceed 4 points. This ensures consistency and fairness in the evaluation process.

**Calculation of Score**

After inspecting a roll of fabric, the total score is calculated by summing up all the individual defect scores. Depending on the acceptance level, the fabric is then graded. However, since different fabric types have different acceptable limits, it's common to calculate the score per 100 square yards using the following formula:

(Total Score × 36 × 100) / (Number of Codes Tested × Width of Fabric That Can Be Cropped) = Score Per 100 Square Yards

This calculation allows for a fair comparison between different fabric batches or types. It simplifies the grading process and ensures that all rolls are evaluated consistently.

**Acceptance Levels for Different Fabric Types**

Fabrics are categorized into four main groups, each with its own acceptable score limit per 100 square yards:

- **Woven Fabrics**: 1. Full artificial fabrics (polyester, nylon, acetate), shirt materials, spun rayon – 20/16 points. 2. Denim, canvas, poplin, oxford, cotton shirting, wool, striped or plaid fabrics – 28/20 points. 3. Linen, thin cotton – 40/32 points. 4. Silk (dopioni, light silk) – 50/40 points.

- **Knitted Fabrics**: 1. Artificial fabrics, rayon, worsted wool, blended silk – 20/16 points. 2. Professional knits (jacquard, corduroy, velvet, spandex) – 25/20 points. 3. Basic knitted fabrics (combed cotton, blended cotton) – 30/25 points. 4. Carded cotton knits – 40/32 points.

If a single roll exceeds the specified score, it is classified as second-class. If the average score of the entire batch goes beyond the allowed limit, the whole batch is considered failed.

**Sampling Procedure**

The sampling is done randomly. At least 80% of the rolls in a batch must be packaged before inspection begins. The inspector selects the samples from the available rolls. Once selected, no changes can be made to the number of samples or the selection itself. During the inspection, only the pre-recorded colors and tested sections may be examined. All inspected rolls are rated and scored accordingly.

**Other Considerations in Fabric Grading**

- **Repeated Defects**: Any recurring or continuously appearing defects are considered repeated. Each repeat violation is penalized with 4 points. If a roll contains more than 10 yards of repeated defects, it is automatically unqualified.
- **Full Width Defects**: A roll containing more than four full-width defects per 100 square yards cannot be classified as first-class. Similarly, if there is more than one major defect within 10 linear yards, the roll is considered unqualified, regardless of other factors.
- **Edge and End Defects**: If a significant defect appears in the first or last three yards of a roll, the entire roll is considered unqualified. Major defects are treated as 3 or 4-point issues.
- **Surface Issues**: Loose or tight lines on the selvedge, wrinkles, or creases that make the fabric uneven when unfolded disqualify it from being first-class.

**Fabric Width Evaluation**

- When measuring the width of a roll, it should be checked at least three times—at the beginning, middle, and end. If the width is close to the minimum specification or inconsistent, additional checks are required.
- If the width is below the specified minimum, the roll is rejected. For woven fabrics, an extra inch over the specified width results in rejection, except for elastic fabrics, which can tolerate up to 2 inches over without issue.

This comprehensive inspection standard ensures quality control and helps maintain high standards across different fabric types.

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