Standard method for inspection of fabrics

Cloth Inspection Standard: The Four-Point Scoring Method

The most commonly used method for inspecting fabric is the "Four-Point Scoring Method." In this system, each individual defect can receive a maximum of four points. No matter how many defects are present on the fabric, the total score per linear yard must not exceed four points.

When evaluating defects in different directions—such as lengthwise or widthwise—the scoring is based on the following criteria:

One point: The defect measures 3 inches or less.
Two points: The defect is longer than 3 inches but less than 6 inches.
Three points: The defect is between 6 and 9 inches long.
Four points: The defect exceeds 9 inches in length.

Serious defects, such as holes, will be rated at four points per yard, regardless of their size. For example, any hole, no matter the diameter, will automatically be assigned four points. Consecutive defects like crosspieces, edge-to-edge color variation, irregular widths, creases, or uneven dyeing will also be scored at four points per yard.

The score for each code must not exceed four points.

**Calculation of Score**

After inspecting each roll of fabric, the scores from all detected defects are summed up. Based on the acceptance level, the fabric is then graded. However, since different fabric types have different acceptable thresholds, it's recommended to calculate the score per 100 square yards using the following formula:

(Total Score × 36 × 100) / (Number of Codes Tested × Width of Fabric That Can Be Cropped) = Score per 100 Square Yards

This allows for a standardized comparison across different fabric batches and types.

**Acceptance Levels for Different Fabric Types**

Fabrics are categorized into different types, each with its own acceptable score limit. If a single roll exceeds the specified score, it is classified as second-class. If the average score of an entire batch surpasses the threshold, the whole batch is considered non-conforming.

**Woven Fabrics**
1. Full artificial fabrics (polyester, nylon, acetate), shirt materials, spun rayon, worsted wool: 20 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 16 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
2. Denim, canvas, poplin/oxford cotton shirting, spun rayon, wool, striped or plaid fabric, dyed phthalocyanine: 28 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 20 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
3. Linen, thin cotton cloth: 40 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 32 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
4. Doupioni silk, light silk: 50 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 40 points / 100 sq yd (batch)

**Knitted Fabrics**
1. Full artificial fabrics (polyester, nylon, acetate), rayon, worsted wool, blended silk: 20 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 16 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
2. Full professional fabrics (jacquard, corduroy, velvet, spandex): 25 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 20 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
3. Basic knitted fabric (combed cotton, blended cotton): 30 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 25 points / 100 sq yd (batch)
4. Basic knitted fabric (cotton carded by combing machine): 40 points / 100 sq yd (single roll), 32 points / 100 sq yd (batch)

**Sampling Procedure**

The sampling process is entirely random. At least 80% of the rolls in a batch must be packaged before inspection begins. The inspector selects the samples from the available rolls. Once selected, the number of inspected rolls cannot be changed. During the inspection, only the recorded colors are tested, and no additional fabric is taken from other rolls. All inspected rolls are evaluated and scored.

**Other Considerations for Grading Fabric**

**Repeated Defects**

1. Any recurring or continuous defects are considered repeated. Each such violation must be scored at four points.
2. A roll containing more than ten yards of fabric with repeated defects is automatically rejected.

**Full Width Defects**

3. Rolls with more than four full-width defects per 100 square yards cannot be classified as first class.
4. A roll with more than one major defect within 10 linear yards is considered unqualified, regardless of the total number of defects in 100 yards.
5. Any significant defect in the first three or last three yards of a roll results in rejection. Major defects are treated as three or four-point issues.
6. If a roll has visible loose or tight selvedges, wrinkles, or creases that make the fabric uneven when unfolded, it cannot be classified as first class.

**Fabric Width**

7. When inspecting a roll, check the width at the beginning, middle, and end. If the width is close to the minimum or inconsistent, increase the number of width checks.
8. If the width is below the specified minimum, the roll is rejected.
9. For woven fabrics, if the width is more than one inch over the specified size, the roll is rejected. However, for elastic woven fabrics, being two inches wider is acceptable.

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